# Left my home town of Huntly... Jools and I are country-singing cowgirls from Huntly and spent our childhood helping Dad on the farm and eating Mum's amazing home cooking. The Topp Twins have been around the world making people laugh, but it's always good to get home to NZ and a good old cheese and Marmite sandwich. and a good old cheese and Marmite sandwich. Or one of Mum's gingernuts. This country is overflowing with incredible produce and amazing home cooks. We're hungry for a new adventure, so we're hitting the road in search for the true food heroes of NZ. Yeehah! # I'm just a local farmhand # working the land. # This week, we hang out with a hunting and gathering couple living the dream on the road. And I attempt to catch my first wild salmon on the mighty Rakaia River. Salmon ` one of the hardest game fish to catch. But first up, we meet a very inspiring woman, Margaret Logan, who is the Jean Batten of South Island's High Country salmon farming. Us Kiwis love being first at trying something new. Richard and Margaret pioneered the very first fresh-water salmon farm in the world. Sadly, Richard passed away last year, leaving Margaret the queen of chinook farm salmon. How many acres you got here? How many acres you got here? Acres? How many acres you got here? Acres? ALL LAUGH We've got room for lots of pens, as you can see out here. We've got room for lots of pens, as you can see out here. It's a farm, isn't it? It is a farm. It is a farm. Lynda here, she's excited about her salmon. Yeah, I'd like to catch one, eh. Yeah, I'd like to catch one, eh. She is. She wants to hold one up. We just might be able to help you do that. It might be a bit of a cheat, but... (LAUGHS) I see there's a whole lot of people camped out there. I see there's a whole lot of people camped out there. Are they fishing? A lot of them will be. Yeah, yeah. The trout and the salmon that are out in the open swim round underneath the pens because when we're feeding the salmon, some gets through. Oh, a little bit of leakage` Oh, a little bit of leakage` Yeah. And we can get really big trout because they stay there and catch every little bit that goes through. because they stay there and catch every little bit that goes through. So the wild ones can get real big? There might be a few salmon outside too. The odd one does jump the fence. OK. You gotta jump the fence. Jump the fence, yeah. Jump the fence, yeah. Just like a farm, you've gotta keep your fences good. That we do. These pens are our paddocks. Jeremy. How are ya, buddy? Jeremy. How are ya, buddy? Good, thanks. Nice to meet you. You too, buddy. You too, buddy. Yeah. You too, buddy. Yeah. Any relation to Margaret? No relation. I've been working for Margaret for five years now, so... No relation. I've been working for Margaret for five years now, so... Oh, OK. So you're the man that can help me catch a fish. So you're the man that can help me catch a fish. I can help you. Well, I'm the girl that wants to catch one. Well, I'm the girl that wants to catch one. OK. Let's go do it. Sounds good. Do we need a rod? Not going to need a rod today. We've got a couple of thousand fish in this pen, so I reckon our chances are pretty good. Do you like working here, buddy? Do you like working here, buddy? Oh, yeah, it's a great job. I like being in the outdoors, and agriculture's a good industry as well. This is your tractor, is it? This is your tractor, is it? Yeah. This is your tractor, is it? Yeah. (CHUCKLES) Have you learned a bit off Margaret? Have you learned a bit off Margaret? Oh, I've learned heaps off Margaret and her late husband, Richard. I started working here as a university student. Invaluable time working here with those two. Inspirational, really, in what they've achieved. Oh, don't they love it? My husband Richard was one of the first people that thought of this. There was already salmon farming in the sea, but we realised they could go as well in fresh water with the right conditions, and these were the right conditions, and so we built this. Richard died last year, but he was very happy and proud to have seen this come` come to fruition. He was a proud fisherman, was he? He was a proud fisherman, was he? He was a keen salmon fisherman before we started salmon farming. He was always very keen and interested in the salmon. I had somebody say once, 'He thinks like a salmon.' He seemed to know what` In the days that he went fishing, he would know where to find a fish in a hole in the river. I've never been a salmon fisherman. I always thought one fisherman was enough. They're crazy people. Fanatical. Fanatical. My sister loves fishing. She adores it. But you don't do it. But you don't do it. No. I-I ride horses. It's like feeding out the hay. Yeah. Yeah. But they're a bit smaller. Yeah. But they're a bit smaller. BOTH CHUCKLE This is really fresh water originating from the glaciers up in the mountains up there, so... So it's really pristine water. That's important, eh, for salmon? So it's really pristine water. That's important, eh, for salmon? Yeah. It's perfect for agriculture. Wow, they're quite beautiful. You got any girls working here? You got any girls working here? There's a couple girls that work here, yeah. You got a girlfriend? You got a girlfriend? Oh,... yeah, I do. You do? You do? She, um` She works here, uh, on her university holidays, so... Oh, yeah. Oh, yeah. Her name's Jess. Margaret's granddaughter. Margaret's granddaughter. So you are related in some way. Margaret's granddaughter. So you are related in some way. Um,... i-in a way. i-in a way. BOTH LAUGH OK, so, it's just a dip in, is it, with the net? Yeah. Yeah. OK. Slide it into the water in front of the fish, and, um, hopefully something will swim into it. OK, I got one! > OK, I got one! > That's it. > OK, I got one! > That's it. > Whoo! Whoo-hoo! > You got two. > You got two. > I got two! I got two! > Oh my God. Ah. (CHUCKLES) Righty-oh. (STRAINS, CHUCKLES) Hey, they're kind of heavy. Whoa. Look at that ` two in one go. Oh, let's put that out of the way. Oh man, there they are. Oh, let's put that out of the way. Oh man, there they are. Have a look at your salmon. Look at that. Look at that. He is so beautiful. Let's see how long he is. And there he is. What a magic fish. Catching a salmon in the farm, it's still really exciting to get a fish like that. Just absolutely beautiful. He's got a beautiful green back. Look at that. Really really silvery. He's so healthy. You must be so proud of your fish, are you? He's so healthy. You must be so proud of your fish, are you? Oh, we are. Yeah. We've put a lot of, uh, work into making sure that our` our fish get to grow as naturally as possible. Should we go and have some lunch? Should we go and have some lunch? Go have some lunch, yep. You like cooking? You like cooking? Oh yeah. It's a good way to relax at the end of the day. Really nice colour on that. Really nice colour on that. Starting to look good to me. Yeah. It's smelling pretty good as well to me, so... We're going to make an avocado salsa to go on our salmon burger. Got a wee bit of red onion here, uh, bit of chopped coriander, avocado, obviously, um, some fresh lime juice and a wee p` pinch of cumin. I'm also gonna put some, uh` some hot sauce in here as well. Nice little simple salsa. Nice little simple salsa. It goes perfectly with salmon, so... Nice little simple salsa. It goes perfectly with salmon, so... Yeah. Do you eat a bit of salmon yourself? Do you eat a bit of salmon yourself? I do. I like it all. I love to sit down and have sashimi for my lunch. Very popular, smoked salmon, hot-smoked, cold-smoked salmon. I have truck drivers stop for their lunch. They pick up a pottle of sashimi now instead of going and getting a hot pie. Oh, well, that's how you're keeping the country healthy at the same time. (LAUGHS) I'd better start feeding the babies before they think they're not getting any lunch. Oh my God. That salsa is incredible. What a stylie young man you are. (LAUGHS) (LAUGHS) Good on ya, buddy. Here's to the chinook salmon. Yeah. You feed them; now they're feeding us. We better see if anyone's had luck catching some of these wild salmon who live in the canals. BOTH: You caught anything? BOTH: You caught anything? Not today. But we've had a really good run since Christmas time. Still here, though, eh? Still here, though, eh? We're still here because we've just gotta get that big one. BOTH CHUCKLE You've got the bug, though, haven't you? You've got the bug, though, haven't you? I do. It's the thrill of the catch. Always looking for the big one. You're all dressed up. What's goin' on with this fishing outfit? Well, you know, you've gotta show up and dress up. That's my` Well, you know, you've gotta show up and dress up. That's my` ALL LAUGH We've travelled for six months, hunting and fishing our way. Once you get out there in the wilds of NZ in the open, it's just` you just can't stop, eh? Yeah, we're so lucky. We got six fish yesterday. We're just gonna shoot some bunnies a bit later. We've got a Canada goose, some blue cod. We've got plenty of tucker. What's on the menu tonight? What's on the menu tonight? Um, probably more salmon. We're gonna smoke some tonight. < Do you want a bit of salmon? < Do you want a bit of salmon? We'd better go and get our own. We wanna catch our own. We wanna catch our own. Gotta get your own. The family fisherperson is here, and we've gotta get that elusive salmon. We do. See ya, buddy. See ya, buddy. See ya. See ya, buddy. See ya. Go well. Get my bag, quick. Hello, NZ. I've just flown in from Paris. Some of the Parisian chefs were having a bit of trouble with sauce. I'm gonna share one of my sauces with you today ` a lovely, never-fail hollandaise. I've got three egg yolks. I'm gonna put a little bit of lemon zest in there and a little bit of lemon juice. Righty-oh, beat away, Camp Leader, please. Very important. I've got a little bit of melted butter here. I'm gonna drizzle that in to my mixture. Keep beating, Camp Leader. Drizzle and beat. Drizzle and beat. Keep it steady. I'm exhausted, Camp Mother. I'm exhausted, Camp Mother. Camp Leader, keep beating, for God's sake. < You can't have a split in your hollandaise. It's all in there. That's it. Camp Leader! Get out of it. Go and get your salmon. Hurry up. Goodness gracious me. Got to beat this. Very important. UPBEAT MUSIC Wow. Right. Oh, Camp Leader. Lovely. There you go. I'm gonna add a bit of tarragon. That's the secret. I'm gonna just pop that hollandaise on to my salmon. I'm going to garnish with a little lily tomato and a twist of lemon and parsley. And there it is ` seared salmon with my never-fail hollandaise sauce. Perfect. LIGHT`HEARTED COUNTRY MUSIC How you feeling, Toppy? Lucky? How you feeling, Toppy? Lucky? Yeah, I suppose there's quite a lot of luck involved. It feels like we're fishing in a car park. LIGHT`HEARTED COUNTRY MUSIC We met mental-health nurses Frank and Hilma earlier, salmon fishing on the canals. They're sensibly putting their own mental health first and have chucked in the day-to-day grind of work and are hittin' the road for six months. They're incredibly good at salmon fishing, and since I'm having no luck, we might have to take up that offer of a good feed. Hey, folks. Hey, folks. How'd you go? No, no good. No, no good. No good? No, no good. No good? Nah. We got one the other day. Nice for lunch if you fellas wanna join us. Seeing as you can't catch your own. How's that sound? Yeah, she's useless. I'm gonna go hungry hanging out with her. Yeah, she's useless. I'm gonna go hungry hanging out with her. ALL LAUGH Oh, well. UPBEAT COUNTRY MUSIC We just thought we'll use the South Island as a base and hunt, gather and fish as we go. We woulda caught over 200 decent-sized crayfish. Yeah. Yeah. Seafood of all sorts of varieties. Uh, inland, salmon, in the salmon country. I caught my first salmon ever. Oh, yeah. Oh, yeah. And then I couldn't stop catching them, so... Yeah. We woulda got more than 30 salmon. Does Jock eat wild too? Does Jock eat wild too? He certainly does. He likes salmon. Yeah. So... What did all your friends think of this crazy idea? They wondered if we would end up divorced. Five months, and you're still going strong. Five months, and you're still going strong. Joined at the hip. ALL LAUGH It's just a great life. I'd recommend it to anyone. Righty-oh, we're going for a walk. Righty-oh, we're going for a walk. Back for lunch. Righty-oh, we're going for a walk. Back for lunch. See ya. (CHUCKLES) Bet you've heard that a few times, eh? 'Back for lunch.' LIGHT`HEARTED MUSIC Done that a few times, eh, Frank? Done that a few times, eh, Frank? Yes. How long you been a huntin', fishin' man. I woulda caught my first fish when I was about 4, probably. A way before school, anyway. So I've been pretty obsessed since then. You've eaten quite a bit of salmon on this trip? You've eaten quite a bit of salmon on this trip? Yep. We have. Yep. And this makes very good cray bait. Hilma just made this crab apple jelly from wild crab apples off a tree on the side of the road. We've used that on salmon before, It's nice. You've gathered this all on your trip? We have. Beautiful, eh? We have. Beautiful, eh? Yeah. LIGHT`HEARTED MUSIC A little bit of lemon. A little bit of lemon. Last little touches there. A little bit of lemon. Last little touches there. Do a bit of salad. Righty-oh. Righty-oh. Cool. > Righty-oh. Cool. > On to it. > I don't think we've ever had this amount of time together, yeah, with no schedules and no responsibilities and, um, just really having fun. And it's a beautiful place, isn't it, eh? The South Island. You just can't beat it. The South Island. You just can't beat it. Yeah, I know. I totally agree. If the world all goes crazy, you're not really worried, are you? Cos Frank and you, you'd just be able to go out and fish and hunt, and you guys will be just fine, won't you? We will. I'd look forward to the opportunity. We will. I'd look forward to the opportunity. BOTH LAUGH Livin' the dream. Livin' the dream. Yeah. The main thing that struck me is how little you do need. You don't need stuff. As long as you've got enough to eat and you're warm, that's all it is at the end. We've got everything we need to be able to catch or shoot something to eat. I do most of the hunting, um, but Hilma's just as keen on the fishing. Yeah? Yeah? Yeah. Yeah, no, Hilma` Hilma's good. So how did you meet? So how did you meet? Um, at a party at a flat in Dunedin. I was 21, and she was 17. Yeah, essentially, she never went home. Yeah, essentially, she never went home. (LAUGHS) This year, we're 30 years... anniversary for being married, so, yeah. She's quite a girl, isn't she? She looks pretty` She's got her fingernails done. Well, she does, but then, you know, you see her in a kayak in the surf, pulling in a cray pot, or standing up to her waist in the river, fishing ` the side of Hilma most people don't see... Yeah. Yeah. ...that I know very well. She's beautiful, but she's not a prissy girl. Yeah. Yeah. Mm. She's a bit bossy, but... (LAUGHS) (LAUGHS) Yeah. (CHUCKLES) You wouldn't believe it now, but he was quite shy. That made him rather attractive to me, I think. Yeah? Yeah? Yeah. Yeah, so it was a pretty instant thing, yeah. He's very romantic. Yeah. Yeah. Yeah. Yeah. Yeah. BOTH LAUGH He's very romantic. I'm lucky. It's always some adventure. Yeah. Yeah. So, yeah, yeah, he's a cool guy. He always has been. Yeah. Yeah. What's not to love? < What is it, kelp chips, we're makin'? < What is it, kelp chips, we're makin'? Yeah, we eat quite a lot of seaweed. Yeah, it's beautiful. I really really like it. < It goes brown when it's cooked and crunchy, and, um, yeah, it's delicious. It's an amazing thing you're doing. It's an amazing thing you're doing. Everybody should do it once in their life. Six months in a campervan in NZ. It's just wonderful. Yeah, it really is. What are you thinkin'? It's all right? What are you thinkin'? It's all right? Beautiful. Crab apple jelly is the winner. REFLECTIVE COUNTRY MUSIC Bruce Riley has been fishing the Rakaia River since he was a boy. He's a bit of a legend round these parts. When he's not fishing, Bruce runs the Dunsandel pub with his wife, Margaret. I'm hopin' Bruce's fishing skills will rub off on me today. Gotta catch that first big salmon. Here's your rod. Better take that with ya. Here's your rod. Better take that with ya. Oh. Righty-oh. Gidday, Bruce. Gidday, Bruce. I've seen two salmon already. You've seen two already? You've seen two already? Half way down, they just rose out like that. Beautiful. How are ya? How are ya? Pleased to meet ya. I thought you might have seen 'em at Countdown or somewhere. I thought you might have seen 'em at Countdown or somewhere. Oh no. Oh no, no, no. This is the real McCoy. They're here. Are they hard to catch, salmon? Are they hard to catch, salmon? They're very hard to catch. OK. OK. But when the conditions are good, yeah, you can get 'em, all right. Yeah, there's a big one waiting out there for me. About 20lb. (CHUCKLES) Watch out you don't fall in! Watch out you don't fall in! That's it. Watch out you don't fall in! That's it. Save me a beer, Jools. UPBEAT COUNTRY MUSIC Nice piece of water, isn't it? Nice piece of water, isn't it? Oh, beautiful. Now, where are we headin', Bruce? Got a secret hole up here. Got a secret hole up here. Oh yeah? A fisherman never tells you where you're going. (CHUCKLES) If they do, they'll have to kill ya. Hang on. Oh, look at that ` that young man's already got one. A good omen for me today, I hope. < Wow. Did you just catch that, buddy? Yeah. Yeah. < How much you reckon he weighs? 14? 14? 14? 14? 14? I'd say pound, yeah. Oh God, he's beautiful. I've had a good season. Been quite a few fish in the river. < It was in the secret hole, was it? < It was in the secret hole, was it? The secret hole. I think that's where we're headin'. I think that's where we're headin'. Get into it. I think that's where we're headin'. Get into it. (CHUCKLES) Thanks, buddy. There's fish in here, so let's go. (CHUCKLES) I started fishing here 35 years ago. I've done it ever since. I caught a fish the first day I went out, so I got my buck. When I started, we'd see 80 a day going over a shingle bar. You're lucky to see 80 in a whole season now. It's starting to come back now, which is good. So the salmon are coming back? So the salmon are coming back? The salmon are coming back. So the salmon are coming back? The salmon are coming back. That sounds pretty good to me. They come in November and probably spawn in April. There's four or five months they're not eating. The salmon, when they come in from the sea, their gullet closes up. < They only grab your gear because they're aggro. < They only grab your gear because they're aggro. They're attacking, not eating. < They're just having a go at it. < They're just having a go at it. Doesn't look that attractive. It looks like the end of an old spoon. < Four or five months that they're not eating. They deteriorate. Cos after they've spawned, they're gonna die, aren't they? Cos after they've spawned, they're gonna die, aren't they? < Oh, they die, yeah. So that's why it's easier to catch trout, cos they're eating. The other thing is that trout don't die. That's why we do catch-and-release with trout. It seems right to eat the salmon, because he's gonna die anyway. He's gonna die anyway, yeah. He's gonna die anyway, yeah. < It feels OK to catch and eat. Does any` any other members of the family fish? Oh, my wife, once a year on her birthday. Oh, my wife, once a year on her birthday. (LAUGHS) See if we can get them to have a go at this. (LAUGHS) I have caught one salmon.... I have caught one salmon.... One salmon? ...in the last 30 years. ...in the last 30 years. This is what everybody tells me. Took you out for your birthday. God, so romantic (!) It was. It was. Did he have wine and champagne and flowers out in the boat? No. No. BOTH LAUGH I did catch a fish. I did catch a fish. You did? I did catch a fish. You did? I did. Was it an exciting moment? Was it an exciting moment? It was. He was a bit brassed off, because he hadn't caught one that particular time. I've been out a few times. Not very often. Not often enough. Like, I haven't been out this year. I look after the pub when he's away. I have a part-time job in Christchurch four days a week as well. < To keep your man fishing. Yes. Yes. (LAUGHS) Yes. (LAUGHS) I do. He just absolutely loves fishing. There's our boy Bruce. Look, it's half the size of his body, that fish. That's a big fish. That's another local guy. That's another local guy. Everybody's got a big smile on their face when they catch a fish. That's the` the thing that stands out the most. Keeps them sane. When they come home with a fish, they're good to be around. It's just the release from here, with dealing with people all the time. I think it's the same for Lynda. She's as mad as Bruce is in the fishing department. She said, 'It's not about fishing. It's about that moment.' And it's just nice getting out on to the river and the solitude of the river. You know, he can just go out on his own and the peace and quiet. Working in the pub, you're dealing with people, late hours, and they can't attack you down here. It's good. (CHUCKLES) You can hide. So solitude. So solitude. Solitude, definitely. No, it's beautiful, isn't it? This would be good eating if we can get one. How do you like yours cooked? Either bottled or smoked. Either bottled or smoked. Bottled? Either bottled or smoked. Bottled? Bottle them, yeah. Do you have it with anything or you just eat it`? Do you have it with anything or you just eat it`? Nah, eat it as is. As it is. If you get hungry, you just go and grab a jar of salmon and just slop it out. The first thing I do is fillet the fish, skin the fish and put the fish into the preserving jar, which is already being sterilised in the oven. A knob of butter, a spoonful of sugar, a sprinkling of salt, cracked pepper, tablespoon of tomato sauce, followed by vinegar. The lid has also gotta be boiled. And it goes into the boiling water for four and a half hours and comes out beautiful. I've got some 10 years old. I was gonna open it up and see if it was all right. I can't trust` You have to try it first before you give it to guests. (CHUCKLES) Righty-oh. I'd like to try that. Righty-oh. I'd like to try that. The boys eat it out at in the bar. Give it to them, and away they go. Oh dear. (LAUGHS) Oh dear. (LAUGHS) < Oh, that doesn't sound very promising. We'll just take some. We'll just take some. Is this way` the way fisherman used to...? Yes. Y` Oh, absolutely. Yes. Um, bottle it, or some of them actually pay to have it canned. Yes, it goes back years. It's actually Bruce's father's. Bruce's father's recipe. I would never have thought of doing it. Do you think it's dangerous? Do you think it's dangerous? Well... Do you think it's dangerous? Well... It's been sitting in a jar, has it? Yeah. Yeah. Righty-oh. I'm gonna have a crack at it. I'll just have a little wee bit. Mm. Beautiful. Just like tinned` Just like tinned salmon. Just like tinned` Just like tinned salmon. Tinned salmon. Yes. It's just that... everyone used to bottle, like, fruit, so you obviously just bottled salmon. The Dunsandel pub runs a competition during the season, attracting people from far and wide to see if they're gonna be the next world record holder. OK. 6.2. So which is how many pounds? MAN: 13, probably. I thought it was bigger when I pulled it out. But, yeah, I was hoping it be about 7, really, but... But, yeah, I was hoping it be about 7, really, but... All the thrill of the catch, eh? It is. That's what makes your heart beat. It is. That's what makes your heart beat. Yeah. Oh yeah. Oh, it's good. The wind's come up really hard now. It makes it difficult to cast out into the river. It's not always about catching fish either. It's just beautiful being out here on the Rakaia for the first time. Um, have` not having much luck with catching a wild salmon, but, um... but, you know, that's` that's fishing. And sometimes you get 'em; sometimes you don't. # Run, river, run. # River, run. # That river is deep. That river is long. # The fishermen always sing this song. # They say, 'Run, river, run. # 'River, run.' Here you go. Here you go. A couple of days' preparation. A few days in the brine. Six hours in the smoker. We use fruit trees. That's blackboy peach it's been smoked with. It's a lot sweeter, as opposed to sharp. It's cold smoked. # Run, river, run. Can't talk. Too nice. Are you sick of salmon yet, Bruce? Are you sick of salmon yet, Bruce? < You can't get sick of salmon. I don't catch enough. It takes a long time to catch a salmon, doesn't it, Lynda? You better have some too, buddy. There's a little bit there for ya. You better have some too, buddy. There's a little bit there for ya. Thank you. One day, on your bucket list. Now, here we go, Toppy. Now, here we go, Toppy. Whoo! # That river is deep. That river is wide. # Nobody's ever been on the other side. # I said, run, river, run. # River, run. # (LAUGHS) (LAUGHS) Whoo-hoo! I've always been a fisherman. It sets my heart a-quiver. See the mighty salmon run up the Rakaia River. Ah. They're beautiful. They're elusive. They're a charming wild fish. To keep the rivers clean and clear would be my heart-felt wish. There's nothing more exciting, Ken, than a tug upon your line. If you had it your way, mate, you'd be fishin' all the time. If you had it your way, mate, you'd be fishin' all the time. Too right.